New versions of ”New Nordic” at Restaurant Mes
The amount of medium prices restaurants in Copenhagen is massive and new ones open each month. This good thing about competition is that it keeps everybody on their toes, but hard for a dedicated foodie to keep up. Therefore, 5 months after opening of Restaurant Mes it was time for me to visit it.
The decor is light and simple with a moss wall to highligt the New Nordic connection. Being a medium priced restaurant the tables were sitted quite close, but if the food is good it is worth it.
We started with five different snacks where the first two were served on a bed of moss, which in recent years have become very popular, especially at Noma, so I expect it was their way to pay homage to their predecessors. With a complete wall of moss, I expect this “plate” will be permanent at Restaurant Mes. Served on top of the moss was a crispy shrimp chip and a kale dumpling as I remember it. Nice but not amazing.
Mushroom tempura was nice and a bit more rich and fatty compared to a classic Nordic starter.
Highlights of the snacks was a rich malt crustader with a nice matching mayo.
With this, we were ready for our first course. A raw and very crisp cucumber with dill dust and a raw scallop in a delicate light sauce. A great light dish to start the meal.
Light was not a word I would use to describe the next dish. Fresh peas, asparagus and an extremely rich and umami potent sauce. Usually peas and asparagus are usually served in a very light dish, but it really worked with the sauce.
Rich and potent is also a word that I would use to describe the next dish. A sous vide egg yolk, with a spelt “risotto” with watercress, sour cream and toasted hazelnuts. Off course, the egg yolk and the hazelnuts were a perfect match.
As the main course was wild boar cheeks with two fresh potatoes in two variations fresh onions and again a potent sauce. Most surprising was one of the potatoes was covered in a very rich dried onion powder. Again, the addition of umami lifted the dish to another level.
To finish the meal was a classic white chocolate and fresh strawberries dessert. Spruits were a great addition, but the fact that they had been frozen was a gimmick that I couldn’t really taste. Strawberries when in season is always amazing so off course it was a good dish.
A night had ended. I loved the combination of fresh delicate vegetables and VERY rich umami sauces. It just worked amazing and I found it to be a fresh new approach to the classic delicate and feminine New Nordic cuisine. Restaurant Mes is therefore a welcome new addition to the Copenhagen food scene, which I off course will return to.