There’s no doubt that Alchemist is one of the most ambitious restaurants in the world. It first opened its massive, 2.5-ton bronze doors just six years ago, and it was immediately launched into the gastronomic stratosphere.
My first visit was four years ago, and it completely blew my mind. I was struck not just by the cohesiveness of the experience, but by the sheer vision behind it—the boldness it takes to imagine something so audacious, and the skill required to pull it off. Now, returning four years later for my second visit, I was curious—how would I react now that the magic had already been revealed?
Standing once again in front of those monumental doors, my curiosity was nearly as intense as the first time. After all, a visionary like Rasmus Munk doesn’t stand still—four years is a lifetime in his world.
The evening traditionally begins with an immersive artistic experience. This season, guests’ faces were seamlessly integrated into historic moments—seeing your own features mapped onto the likes of Napoleon or Muhammad Ali was both surreal and oddly humbling. It made me wonder how they even pulled it off—after all, not everyone is easily Googleable.
With nearly 40 expressions, including artistic pieces, some dishes have become staples—refined over the years rather than replaced. One such dish is the “perfect omelette.” It’s emblematic of Alchemist’s approach: technique taken to breathtaking levels, yet never at the expense of flavor. It was absolutely delicious—truly the perfect omelette. Small “drink” pairings, like a vibrant varonoi laksa with a 3D-printed pattern, and a whimsical “Daisy” named after the Danish Queen, added yet more dimension.
After the snacks, you’re invited into the main dining room—the dome. The opening of those doors is a moment you don’t forget. Entering the space and gazing up at the enormous dome with its world-class animations is something else entirely. The visuals shift throughout the night—interpretations of the dishes themselves, like a pulsing heart with a heart-shaped dessert, a hundred watchful eyes evoking Orwell’s 1984, and finally a breathtaking abstract of the entire restaurant. This interconnectedness is what Rasmus calls holistic cuisine—and it’s a compelling argument.
The eye—or simply “1984”—is also the first dish served in the dome. It’s a spectacular presentation: a plate shaped like a giant human eye, crowned with a delicate, creamy center topped with caviar. Seeing the food, the plating, and the environment sync like this is pure genius.
Three familiar dishes followed—each one a welcome return. First, the most exquisite lobster claw you can imagine. Then Plastic Fantastic, which confronts the reality of microplastics in our oceans and in the fish we eat. And finally, a crab toast made from the invasive brown crab—each dish, a powerhouse of flavor and message.
Then came a moment that perfectly captured Alchemist’s obsessive attention to detail. My visit was a last-minute addition—the team only learned I’d be joining five hours before dinner. Yet somehow, they managed to find my photo and print it onto a delicate butter. It was a small, unexpected gesture—but powerful. It was Will Guidara’s “unreasonable hospitality,” done the Alchemist way.
Alchemist never shies away from provocation. Whether it’s organ donation or ocean pollution, the restaurant challenges its guests to think. This time, the provocation was more playful—and very literal. A dish called Tongue Kiss was plated to resemble a life-size replica of Rasmus’s tongue. To eat it, you quite literally had to French kiss the chef. Bold? Absolutely.
Food for Thought followed—a delicious lamb brain canapé served in a cut of head, atop a beating brain. Striking and oddly delicious. Hunger came next: rabbit, thinly sliced and draped over a metallic rib cage. The intentions were clear—and chilling.
But not everything is a political statement. Some dishes exist simply to celebrate flavor. One of the best examples? A slice of airy bread topped with brown butter cream and Joselito jamón. It was the most incredible “bread and ham” I’ve ever tasted. So good, they brought us a second round.
The savory section closed with chicken. First, a gloriously crisp fried chicken piece served in a miniature cage—a stark reminder of how chickens are treated in industrial farming. Then a crispy chicken foot—visually stunning, and all about texture.
The desserts, as expected, broke all conventions. From a jellyfish-inspired creation to an edible version of The Scream, to Eight Layers of Life—a small chocolate heart. This dish has been on the menu since day one, inspired by organ donation. At one point, Alchemist helped guests register as donors—leading to a woman saving eight lives with her organs. This is where Alchemist transcends cuisine. It’s not just food—it’s impact.
That bigger agenda is one of the reasons I love Alchemist so much. Rasmus and his team strive to create change far beyond their 50 nightly guests. They feed the homeless, create nourishing food for hospitalized children, publish scientific papers through Spora, develop new culinary techniques, and raise awareness of global issues—all while delivering some of the most meticulously crafted dishes in the world. The attention to detail is astonishing—right down to black toilet paper in the bathrooms. They think of everything.
You might worry that the political themes are too overt—but they’re not. The stories are shared, then left with you. You’re never preached at. Whatever your beliefs, you still feel welcome.
After chatting with Rasmus, it’s clear where this dedication comes from—it comes from him. Since opening Alchemist, he’s only missed part of one service, and that was to attend a royal dinner with the Danish King and Queen.
The experience created by this level of commitment is extraordinary. Alchemist is rightly ranked as the 8th best restaurant in the world. It’s like no other—but at its heart, it’s still about delicious food. Yes, there are theatrics, provocations, and big ideas. But they never lose sight of what matters most: flavor. And that’s what I love most of all.
Practical information
Location: Copenhagen
Head Chef: Rasmus Munk
Menu: +20 course tasting menu ($800)
Website: www.alchemist.dk
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