In parts of the world Mexican food equals texmex. Nothing could be further from the truth, which we would experience tonight. In Enrique Olvera’s latest instalment Atla, a casual restaurant in SoHo I was to taste his interpretation of Mexican food in an American setting for the first time.
The restaurant is sleek, modern and almost Nordic in sit simplicity and minimalism. Obviously, I felt like home and I knew that we would not be served classic Mexican food.
First dish was also the highlight of the meal. An amazing simple dish where the only thing that was prepared was a piece for toast. The rest was simply assembled. Goat cheese, delicious sweet and acidic tomatoes, chili, parsley, pickles onions and off course avocado. This was so simple in its composition, but so well balanced. Small foodie orgasm.
Next up was a perfectly battered cod Milanese with a very refreshing cucumber ceviche. Again simple, delicious and very delicate in its flavors.
From delicate and simple to a Classic dish. Chicken enchiladas. A dish that is almost never good outsider Mexico, but was today. Hot Spicy and delicious.
To finish was a sweet corn tamale serves with a sweet milky cream and shaver cheese. This was my first tamale in a sweet version. For me it was not spot on but I will definitely try a tamale in a dessert again.
Atla wants to be a neighborhood restaurant where people pop in for a Quick bite morning, lunch and dinner. If I lived in the neighborhood I World definitely, do so even if the neighborhood was not Manhattan. It is a mystery to me why so many people do not see tacos as anything but street food. Whether or not this is the reason for not having a taco on the menu and that, we had to ask for tortillas to complement the enchiladas I do not know but knowing what Enrique Olvera Can do with a taco, I hope that they put one on the menu. Even if they don’t. I still can’t wait to comeback.