50 Years with Tantris
Visiting Tantris had been on my mind for a long time. A restaurant with more than 50 years of history and two Michelin stars for decades is something rare — and I wanted to experience first-hand what has made it an icon.
Very few restaurants have been around for 54 years, and even fewer have maintained two Michelin stars for 40 of those. Tantris has achieved both, standing today not just as a restaurant, but as a true institution.
The design has remained largely unchanged since the opening — a bold brutalist style that immediately stands out. Two Chinese dragons greet you at the entrance and inside, orange carpet lines the walls alongside deep black and red tones, especially at the striking bar where we both began and ended our evening. The design is truly unique and added a lot to the experience, not least because the carpet helped create incredible acoustics that made the large space feel intimate and perfect for a romantic evening.
Our menu started with six small snacks served at once, including a mushroom taco, a tartlet with beetroot, and celeriac with apple. Each combined crisp and soft textures, with carefully balanced flavors that impressed us right from the start. Already then we knew we were in for a big night.
The first regular dish was a simple but beautifully executed plate of green asparagus — a celebrated ingredient in Germany — served with almonds, balsamic vinaigrette, and fresh cheese. It set the tone for a meal where top-quality ingredients were allowed to shine.
Several luxurious dishes followed. A galette topped with lobster and caviar stood out, but what truly made it memorable was the finger limes, which brought perfect acidity to the richness. A deep-fried artichoke with razor clams and kumquats followed a similar theme, with bright elements keeping the flavors lively.
One of the most striking plates was a layering of red mullet and sepia (squid), finished with a squid ink sauce. It was a visually stunning and well-timed shift into richer courses. Sole with caviar and sea urchin, served with beurre blanc and peas, continued the theme of luxury while keeping the flavors light and fresh.
Sweetbread, a local favorite, was paired with bitter radicchio and a pepper sauce — rich, classic, and satisfying. Finally, the main savory course, a pithivier filled with duck breast, duck liver, and Bresse chicken, closed the savory part of the evening on a high note. Perfect execution and a sauce brightened by a few red berries made it truly memorable.
Desserts came in two parts. A light honey dessert, which felt underwhelming compared by the previous dishes, was followed by a much stronger finish: a sweet yet umami-rich dessert with polenta and pear that brought the evening to a satisfying end.
From start to finish, Tantris impressed me with its unique atmosphere, its respect for tradition, and its incredible attention to detail. I never imagined that carpeted walls could work in a restaurant — but at Tantris, every element feels considered and tied together into a seamless whole. Head Chef Benjamin Chmura carries the legacy forward with respect, letting Tantris be exactly what it was always meant to be: an institution.
The service was another highlight — friendly, genuine, and attentive. Just minutes after receiving our first cocktails at the bar, the bartender had helped us secure a booking at another fully booked restaurant. Later, they even helped us find museum opening hours for the next day, a small but much-appreciated gesture.
Tantris is a place where tradition meets great hospitality in the best possible way. I’m already looking forward to returning one day.
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Practical Information
Location: Munich, Germany
Menu: 8-course tasting menu €345
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