Tohru in der Schreiberei is a restaurant of contrasts. Set in one of Munich’s oldest townhouses, it offers a contemporary and daring fusion of Japanese and French cuisine. Since opening its doors in 2021, it has quickly garnered acclaim, earning an impressive two Michelin stars within a year.
Chef Tohru Nakamura’s heritage is unmistakably Japanese, but he was born and raised in Germany. His culinary training also took place there—aside from a brief but formative apprenticeship in Japan. That duality is the soul of his cuisine and what makes Tohru a unique and incredible restaurant.
The impressive journey starts already walking up the stairs of the old townhouse. Inside you feel the history which I think has been maintained respectfully and with elegance. Definently cosy and authentic German.
As you’d expect from a two-star Michelin experience, showmanship is part of the package. Our evening began in the kitchen, greeting the team and watching our first bite come to life: an oyster delicately cooked for about 30 seconds in the glowing coals. Lightly warmed, it was served with a classic French buttery sauce and crisp buckwheat. A beautiful opening—subtle, elegant, and rich in texture.
Back at the table, the champagne trolley rolled up, but with an unexpected twist. Alongside the usual suspects was a sparkling sake and a cocktail made with it. Curious and unfamiliar, the sparkling sake was a must—and a delightful surprise.
We would continue with tempura-fried nori topped with raw wagyu and a hint of mild habanero. Nori and wagyu? Pure Japan. Habanero? Definitely not. But it worked. The textures in perfect contrast, and the heat was just enough to intrigue, not overwhelm.
Then came the evening’s most provocative and surprising dish. It started like a classic nigiri: lean tuna, Hokkaido rice, wasabi. But instead of soy they poured a beurre blanc sauce. French meets Japanese in one bold, buttery move. Traditionalists might would have left immediately —but I absolutely loved it. It was creative, audacious, and undeniably delicious.
Tohru’s love for travel—and Barcelona in particular—surfaced next. A carabinero shrimp, paired with langoustine and a silky sauce made from their shells, transported us to the Spanish coast. That same inspiration carried into a later dish: delicate tear-drop peas served with chawanmushi and a sliver of duck ham. Both plates felt natural within the menu’s evolving rhythm and identity.
We then returned to the Franco-Japanese harmony with a sake-cured salmon trout and rich cream. A simple dish, but another reminder of how seamlessly the two cultures can meld in the hands of a talented chef.
The final savory stretch dialed up the intensity. First, pollock with morels. Then, veal sweetbread with anchovies. Finally, an unforgettable pork filet with salsify, truffle, and meadowsweet. These dishes leaned more toward classic European flavors, capped off by a phenomenal Bordeaux: Château Pichon Longueville, a Parker 100-pointer. It stood out in what was already a standout wine pairing experience from start to finish. After all how often do you really get a wine of this quality as part of regular winepairing.
Dessert brought out Chef Tohru’s playful side. One course referenced his favorite childhood cartoon; another reimagined Tokyo Banana—with chocolate. To close the evening, the sommelier surprised us once again with a 2015 Rochelt schnapps from Tyrol. As stunning in taste as the bottle was in presentation.
French-Japanese fusion has surged in popularity in recent years, and I was especially curious to see Tohru’s take on this. The pairing of refined, ingredient-driven Japanese cuisine with rich, buttery French technique can be magical. And Tohru makes it his own—be it by slipping habanero into wagyu or daring to serve tuna nigiri with beurre blanc. The result is confident, personal, and genuinely delicious.
Practical Information
Location: Munich, Germany
Menu: 10 course tasting menu
Chef: Tohru Nakamura
Website: www.schreiberei-muc.de
No Comments