I first went to Jordnær 6 years. At that time it was on the verge of getting a star, the tables didn’t have table cloth and the menu was a fraction of what it is today.
The food and the service impressed me even then, but I also remember that the identity was unclear. Was it Nordic, French or Japanese? I didn’t know as it was a bit all over the place.
That is not the case any more. For the last couple of years Jordnær have known exactly what it is. The menu is seafood based. The inspiration and selected products comes from Japan. This is combined with selected French sauces and techniques and the best local products that they can find.
Since moving back to Copenhagen 4 years ago its safe to say that I have been a frequent guest at Jordnær. This periode has been a time of refinement more than anything else and going from 2 to 3 Michelin stars in just 4 years is a great testament to that.
In this periode Eric has created a lot of dishes that have not left the menu and only gotten better and better either through better products, small technical changes or just the continuous evolvement in the kitchen. This means that dishes may look the same but taste just a little bit difference and it is in that little difference that you see the difference between class and World class.
For a few years Eric was known as the king of caviar as a visit to Jordnær ment 4-5 caviar servings. That is no longer the case. Caviar is still very much on the menu but more vegetables have found its way to the menu and the Japanese inspiration has been dialed up. Eric made his first visit to Japan earlier this spring and as a consequence of that he now seeks to include more seasonal dishes. Exactly how many and how often they change is yet to be seen but it will definently be interesting to see where the new inspiration takes Jordnær.
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