I used to live very close to Fasangaarden and I would frequently walk past and think to my self “now that would be a cool place for a restaurant. A place where you could really do something that is its own with a great history and an obvious unique location”. 13 years had gone by from he first time I said that the first time to it actually came true and somebody started a restaurant.
Walking through the different dining rooms it was obvious that the owners had had the same idea as me. “Let’s create something true to its history but still bring light and color to the place” which among other things resulted in its beautiful colorful wallpapers that breathes life into the dining room.
Now I have never tried the head chefs Annika Madsens food before but her reputation preceded her so my expectations were actually quiet high without really knowing anything about her style, so I had no idea what to expect except for good flavors.
Now with the first snacks I became a bit wiser on her style. In front of us was a yakatori grilled duck heart, grilled bread with arancini and smoked cod roe and crispy fried shrimps. All well known and pleasing combinations when done right, which they absolutely were here and then there was of course also a small twist in the form of the shrimps which for one had just a bit of yeast flakes in its “batter” and second of all there was a healthy bit of ponzu with the dipping.
The next dish was a bit more classic in the term of crispy lettuce, raw Norwegian scallops and an indecent amount of browned butter which I think also had just a bit of ponzu. Again, a small twist adding ponzu to the browned butter to as it otherwise might have been overwhelming with all that browned butter.
From strait up delicious and simple we were to transition to something a bit more refined and even more delicious. A tartare made from deer with a sorrel vinaigrette, a grilled leak sauce and topped of with a bit of crumble. First of all, tartare is usually just delicious, a deer tartare is even more delicious, and the small non classic additions really completed the dish in terms of flavor and textures.
Now Fasangaarden is what you in Denmark would call a mid-range restaurant so we are already at the main course. This time in the form of very deliciously grilled Iberico pork, grilled asparagus, fresh kale a sauce made of mussels with just a bit of dried turbot roe. A dish that again really impressed from the Iberico pork that had a nice smokey flavor to its surf and turf match.
As an extra course we were offered a caviar blinis that was classic and delicious but would probably have been more natural to have had together with the other snacks and not right before dessert, but at the end of the day they served a healthy amount of caviar so who am I to complain.
There were also no complaints about the desserts. Rhubarb, an ice-cream made from “bread leftovers”, fermented raspberries and a small “oil” from wood sorrel. Again, a dish that was just very well executed and delicious.
As I started saying my expectations were high when arriving at Fasangaarden and they had been fully met and then some. It is clear that head chef Anika is very talented. Everything is balanced, delicious in a style that is both classic but with sufficient amount of innovation making you forget that the combinations are usually quite classic making you quite impressed with the small transformation that the dish had undergone. From a purely selfish point of view I would really like to see what she can do were she given free hands to create a 10 course menu but that would not fit in the context of Fasangaarden in which I think they have a concept that I could be quiet successful. So, for the common good stay the course, keep pushing and I am already looking forward to coming back.
Head chef: Anika Madsen
Menu: A la carte and tasting menu
Price: $200 for the tasting menu including wine, a la carte from 200
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark