Less than a year ago, Gaijin closed its doors. Ever since, I’ve been longing to taste Edward Lee’s cooking again. Back at Gaijin, he brought a smile to my face with his fearless, flavor-forward take on Japanese cuisine—fresh, bold, and unapologetically his own.
Now, at Udtryk, he’s pushing the concept even further. Udtryk—Danish for “expression”—is exactly what Edward is aiming for: to express himself freely, without constraints. Born in Australia, raised in Hong Kong, and trained in Europe, he defies categorization. The food at Udtryk reflects that complexity, drawing on his Chinese heritage as well as his Nordic and French culinary foundations.
The dining room sets the tone: large-scale art installations on the ceiling, generous round tables draped in white cloth—subtle signals of Michelin-star ambition. Two artworks of a turbot fish quietly remind you that here, the product is the star.
Where Gaijin was a bistro with prices that were too low for quality, Udtryk is Edward going all in. Tasting menu, white tablecloths, and even handmade glass art by the talented Zelmer Olsen at every setting—everything is more elegant and refined.
After a classic glass of champagne, we were swiftly served three elegant bites: Danish mackerel, white asparagus with Spanish teardrop peas, and Danish lobster claw with Buddha’s hand and oyster—each presented with meticulous care. The mackerel came in a delicate tart shell, a nod to traditional Chinese pastry-making, while the lobster was plated on another stunning Zelmer Olsen piece.
The first real dish of the night was French toast with Danish Wagyu and oyster—a refined evolution of a dish Edward had at Gaijin. It was as rich and powerful as ever, boldly flavored and beautifully executed.
Then came a more subtle note: Beluga caviar from Gastrounika with a whisper of lentils, koji soy milk, and a surprising burst of lemongrass. The lemongrass stole the show—fresh, bright, and lifting the dish out of the crown of the many caviar with “milk” dishes out there.
Next, a stunner: lobster sashimi paired with an assertive sauce of unripe gooseberry and toasted yeast. A perfect counterpoint to the sweet delicacy of the lobster.
Norwegian shrimps followed, arranged with edible flowers and teardrop peas. I’m writing this from a beach in San Sebastián, where these peas were grown, and yes—they’re even better fresh. Still, the dish held its own.
Then came a story: turbot, the very first dish Edward ever cooked for his girlfriend. So while Rene Redzepi has his seal the deal pasta Edward has his turbut as that also sealed the deal with Regitze now his partner in business as well. The version at Udtryk has evolved, and it was sensational. A beurre blanc enriched with aged tangerine and a 10-year Shaoxing vinegar with deep umami-mushroom notes transformed it into something both nostalgic and entirely new. Easily one of the best dishes I’ve had all year.
Somehow, the next dish matched it: quail with a vegan XO sauce—again, flawless execution and knockout flavor.
To close the savory portion, we had his signature koshihikari rice—once my favorite dish at Gaijin, now elevated with luxurious ingredients: more Danish Wagyu, wild mushrooms, and caviar. Alongside it, a soup dumpling in true Edward style. Rich, soulful, and deeply satisfying.
Before dessert, a clever palate cleanser of oolong, melon, and lychee. Another quiet echo of Chinese flavors, slipping in like a whisper.
And finally: soufflé. It’s been having a bit of a revival in Copenhagen, and Edward’s version didn’t disappoint. Light, airy, and served with a rich vanilla ice cream loaded with vanilla seeds—simple, classic, and done right.
Of course, the elephant in the room when looking at Udtryk’s menu is the resemblance to Jordnær. Some of the same ceramics, similar cutlery, and yes, Zelmer Olsen’s glasswork—it’s hard not to make the comparison. But as soon as you taste the food, the distinction is clear. Edward brings his own voice—Chinese influences, rice mastery, and a playful boldness that’s unmistakably his. There’s inspiration, sure, but imitation? Not even close.
And it looks like he’s built a strong team around him. Morten Magh, the sommelier, offered a truly compelling lineup of both wine and non-alcoholic pairings—each living up to the name Udtryk in its own right. They offer a more traditional pairing too, but honestly, why play it safe here?
All in all, it’s safe to say: Udtryk is one of the most exciting new restaurants to open in Copenhagen in 2025. Whether it makes history with a Michelin star in June—less than two months after opening—or has to wait a bit longer, one thing is clear: Edward Lee is back and he is here to stay.
Practical information
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Head chef: Edward Lee
Menu: +10 course tasting menu $280
Website: www.restaurantudtryk.dk
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