Among Mexico City’s tasting-menu restaurants, EM is the one almost nobody talks about. It doesn’t feature on Latin America’s 50 Best list, its Instagram is more artistic than informative, and you won’t even find a menu on its website. Walking through the doors, I genuinely had no idea what awaited me.
We chose seats at the counter overlooking the kitchen and were immediately welcomed with a glass of Jacquesson 747 Champagne—a bottle I’ve always enjoyed and one I never expected to encounter in Mexico.
Soon after, a snail-shaped bowl arrived, filled with dashi and hoja santa. The broth was meant to be drunk directly from the bowl while burying your nose in fragrant herbs, adding another aromatic dimension. Alongside it came a buñuelo, traditionally a sweet pastry but here transformed into a savoury bite topped with intensely flavoured trout roe. They couldn’t have been more different: one playful and comforting, the other refined and elegant.
Tuna tostada is found on the menu of almost every Mexican restaurant, yet this version looked unlike any I had encountered. The tuna came from Japan and was presented with remarkable restraint. Appearances, however, were deceiving. Beneath the akami lay an intricate blend of beans, chilli, sesame and numerous other ingredients that created extraordinary layers of flavour. It was a study in contrasts: minimalist in appearance, yet remarkably nuanced on the palate. Easily one of the best dishes I ate all year.
The first, though not the last, European influence appeared in the form of grilled onion purée with caviar, served alongside a fried gorda. It was rich, comforting and deeply satisfying, although I wished the purée had been slightly creamier. French influences became even more apparent with perfectly grilled red snapper served with beurre blanc. The fish was wonderfully juicy beneath its crisp exterior, likely helped by the chilli brushed onto the skin. The marriage of gentle heat and buttery richness was something I didn’t expect to find or had previous in Mexico..
They do a great many things different at Em, but for the third time in 10 days in Mexico City the main courses would be duck and waguy. The duck arrived with crisp turnip and a deeply flavoured jus, while the wagyu was accompanied by grilled plátano and a chocolate mole. Once again, the sauces were the true protagonists. Rather than overwhelming the plate with components, the kitchen exercised admirable restraint, allowing every element to speak clearly. Despite their refinement, both dishes remained wonderfully comforting, and in the wagyu course it was the mole—not the meat—that stole the show.
Pastry chefs often live in the shadows, but EM’s deserves special recognition. Desserts are rarely the highlight of a meal for me, as they seldom display the same creativity as the savoury courses. Here, they absolutely did. The opening dessert paired banana with caviar—a familiar combination elevated through exceptional precision in both flavour and texture. It was followed by burnt meringue with two sorbets, where the perfectly aligned layers and striking contrasts in temperature demonstrated remarkable technical skill. The final dessert showcased fig leaf and pistachio in an intensely floral finale. All three desserts shared immaculate execution, bold yet balanced flavours, and a level of creativity that rivalled the savoury kitchen. The pastry chef Mayra Acosta is undoubtedly one to watch.
I never expected my first bite at a Mexican restaurant in Mexico City to involve dashi, yet it perfectly captured EM’s identity. Japanese influence runs throughout the menu—not only in ingredients such as dashi and Japanese tuna, but even more so in its restraint, precision and understated presentation. During my time in Mexico I probably ate ten tuna tostadas, and this one was simultaneously the simplest in presentation and yet the most complex in terms of flavor.
While many of Mexico’s leading restaurants draw inspiration from Oaxaca, EM looks to Veracruz, the chef’s birthplace. Pairing those traditions with Japanese sensibilities and even a classic French beurre blanc creates a style that feels entirely its own. The dishes retain the ingredient complexity that defines Mexican cuisine while expressing it with far greater precision and elegance than I encountered elsewhere.
THe wine pairing was easily the strongest I experienced in Mexico City. Beginning with Jacquesson, continuing with a 2020 Aligoté and finishing with Penfolds reflected an unusually ambitious level of quality. We were also treated to two caviar courses, and while I’m not certain both are part of the standard pairing, they perfectly illustrated the generosity that characterised the entire experience.
All in all, EM exceeded every expectation. I arrived knowing almost nothing about the restaurant and left convinced it deserves two Michelin stars and a place alongside Mexico City’s greats such as Pujol and Quintonil. From start to finish, the experience was virtually flawless, and its distinctive culinary identity makes it an essential destination for anyone visiting the city.
Practical information
Location: Mexico DF
Head Chef: Lucho Martinez
Menu: 13 course tasting menu (apr. $220)
Website: www.itsemilia.rest
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