As a lonely statue in the middle of fields outside the small beach town of Oostende sits the Michelin-starred restaurant Willem Hiele. With a location like this it’s not random. It’s a deliberate choice—one that reflects both nature and space. The space serves several purposes: a handful of hotel rooms that allow guests to spend the night, a massive lounge where everyone gathers for the opening snacks, and finally a grand terrace that would later become an integral part of the experience.
Naturally, dinner started in the lounge, and with the restaurant located close to the sea in a historic fishing town everything was centered around seafood. A small fruits de mer platter became the first series of bites: razor clams, seasnails, oysters and seabass, each treated with restraint to showcase the quality of the ingredients rather than transform them. Four elegant bites that set the tone for the evening.
The first dish in the main dining room was a raw langoustine carpaccio served alongside a bite-sized tartlet of sweet peas and ricotta. The two complemented each other beautifully in both texture and flavour.
The next two dishes revolved around sweet, delicate lobster. First came confit lobster with an artichoke consommé that beautifully highlighted the lobster’s natural sweetness, followed by a lovely lobster chawanmushi. Interestingly, this was the only Japanese influence on the entire menu, which felt refreshing at a time when Japanese techniques have become almost unavoidable in European fine dining.
From here, the menu shifted towards smoke, one of Willem’s signature elements. It began with cold-smoked haddock and dried mussels. The dish reminded me of classic smoked mussels, but in a far more refined and elegant interpretation, layered with sweet onion and duck that added surprising complexity.
For the signature smoked turbot, the smoke became much more direct. Early in the meal Willem had built a fire outside on the terrace. The giant turbot was placed over the flames together with plenty of herbs before being covered with two large metal trays. Finally, several completely wet fabric bags were placed on top, trapping the smoke while gently steaming the fish. The result was a turbot that was simultaneously grilled and smoked, served with an acidic salsa and a classic ratatouille that immediately reminded me of the film of the same name.
This was definitely a version of turbot unlike any I have tried before. Usually the smoke is far more subtle, as are the accompanying garnishes. I loved that he had the courage to take the dish in a completely different direction and, more importantly, the skill to make it work.
Since the fire was still burning, the first dessert was a traditional Belgian waffle cooked over the embers and served with a little apple sauce. There was nothing fancy about it—just pure comfort food—but what made it memorable was that everyone returned to the terrace to enjoy it around the fire.
Back in the dining room, an equally comforting dessert followed in the form of a tart with wild strawberries and pistachios.
I genuinely enjoyed my dinner at Willem Hiele. Even with my limited knowledge of Belgian cuisine and history, it’s easy to feel that these traditions form the foundation of Willem’s cooking. Combined with exceptional local seafood, they create a restaurant with a very clear identity. Rather than relying on elaborate techniques, the food is built on craftsmanship, outstanding produce and careful execution, giving the restaurant a comforting and slightly rustic expression. In that sense, I could actually do without the white tablecloths.
My only concern was the timing. All guests are seated at the same time, which naturally means everyone has to dine at the same pace. With only five chefs in the kitchen, the experience lasted close to four hours from start to finish, which for my taste was about an hour too long, especially considering the length of the menu.
Practical information
Locations: Ooestende, Belgium
Menu: 8 course tasting menu €235
Website: www.restaurant.willemhiele.be
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