The Jane used to be located in an old church in the heart of Antwerp, but seven months ago, he relocated the restaurant to a more modern setting. Naturally, when you choose to move from such an iconic location, it is always for a good reason. For Nick, the unusual setup at the Goren Kwartier church simply didn’t allow him to fulfil the ambitions he has for The Jane.
The new restaurant is located in a modern neighbourhood by the harbour, and Nick was given a blank space to create his dream restaurant. An offer too good to resist. The interesting thing about a blank canvas is that this time, it is all up to Nick to create the magic and fill the space with his personality.
My dinner would start in the lounge with a series of snacks. Each of them was impressive: one-bite creations with long ingredient lists, all designed to build layers of flavour and contrast. The inspiration from Japan was clear in all of them. My favourite was a pumpkin tartlet with smoked eel, ponzu and crispy leeks, just to name a few of the ingredients. It was a flavour combination that clearly showed Nick Bril’s skill in building layers of flavour and creating stunning dishes that impress you even before you take the first bite.
From the dark and intimate lounge, the rest of the dinner would naturally take place in the main dining room. One big open room centred around the kitchen, where all guests can follow the action.
Nick has a love for ancient cooking methods, especially those driven by fire. Flambadou, for example, is a technique where the instrument is heated in the fire. Bone marrow is then poured into it, quickly liquefying before being poured over aged beef. Naturally, this gives the meat a fast and light sear. When done in front of guests, it is a theatrical and fun performance. Here, however, it was done before service, proving that it was done for the flavour and not the show.
Nick is a chef who loves to travel, something you can feel in his flavours. A crudo of hiramasa from Denmark was served with a Mexican ceviche-like sauce, while chawanmushi is as typically Japanese as you can find. On the side was an otoro nigiri with a thin slice of foie gras, vanilla and onion ponzu. No, it was definitely not traditional, with both the long list of ingredients and the foie gras, but it was incredibly delicious. And since we are not in Japan, authenticity and tradition matter less. To me, this is a signature dish in the making, ready to take over from the existing signature dish of oyster, caviar and chutoro. It was a beautiful dish with great balance, but to me, it was less original and interesting than the previous one, which I could eat every day without ever tiring of it. I also can’t remember having seen anything similar in other restaurants.
The menu up until now had been creative. Every dish had a complex flavour profile, and the dishes drew inspiration from all over the world. It is also customary that, for the larger savoury courses, comfort is preferred over creativity and simplicity over complexity. This would also be the case here. In Nick’s own words, the locals from Antwerp prefer familiar flavours. It is therefore only natural to give them what they want.
The last three savoury dishes would therefore be blessed with richer, buttery sauces and traditional luxurious ingredients such as lobster, guinea fowl and vin jaune. My favourite of the three was the guinea fowl, which had been raised in Bresse, like the famous chicken from the region. It was incredibly juicy and packed with flavour, and the cheese sauce was a nice contrast to the chanterelles and flowers. Naturally, all three dishes had been cooked over fire for added depth of flavour.
Three desserts would finish my experience at The Jane. The first looked very classic, with fresh strawberries, yoghurt and ice cream. However, the ice cream wasn’t just any ice cream. It was asparagus, while the yoghurt was made from sheep’s milk. Naturally, both were a nice surprise but also gave much more depth to a dish that could otherwise easily become too one-dimensional.
The same cannot be said for a dessert of dark chocolate, cherries, almond and olive oil. I loved the contrasting flavours and textures. Again, it was a dish that looked simple and innocent but had many levels of flavour. Sesame and bread caramel would finish my meal at The Jane, rounding it off on a comforting and delicious note.
It is clear that Nick balances his own desire to play around with bold flavours inspired by the world with simpler, comforting dishes. I think he strikes the balance perfectly. The start of the meal blows you away with complicated dishes with lots of elements, which also means plenty of depth of flavour. It almost feels effortless. The same is the case when he slows down and serves more traditional, comforting flavours.
Nick is also a DJ, which means that music is naturally a big part of the experience. The music is also both bold and comforting, matching the feeling of the evening.
The design of the restaurant mixes seating inspired by a counter restaurant with normal tables. You sit two by two, like at a normal table and at a normal height. This means a more intimate experience for a couple than a normal counter, and it feels as if the distance to the kitchen is greater than it actually is which creates more intimacy at the table.
Unfortunately, I never tried The Jane in its original location, but the new one definently has potential. I enjoyed all of the dishes, but the most interesting were the more creative dishes with bold flavours. They also felt more personal to Nick, which is always what you want from a chef.
With the blank canvas, Nick got exactly what he wanted: an intimate place with fire at the centre and enough space for him to distil his personality onto a plate. After being open for less than a year, that process is still ongoing, exactly as it should be. How he fills the canvas will be exciting to follow. I know I will.
Practical information
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Head Chef: Nick Bril
Menu: 12 course tasting menu €285
Website: www.thejaneantwep.com
No Comments