When they announced the redesign, it’s safe to say I was skeptical. I simply didn’t see the need unless they were also planning to change the concept.
A few days after reopening, I was back to find out. Stepping into the dining room, the transformation immediately makes sense. The space feels softer, brighter and more open, while new artwork and photography give it a more contemporary expression without losing its warmth.
The first dish made it clear that the redesign wasn’t confined to the dining room. Mackerel was served with green tomatoes, plenty of herbs and an acidic juice. A perfect dish for a warm summer day. The same can be said for the slightly richer crab, served with grilled lettuce and a beer sauce. The sauce was so comforting that I finished every last drop.
Barr has always based its food on Nordic traditions, occasionally reinterpreting classic Danish dishes. One of these was whole roasted plaice, elevated through flawless cooking over fire and generous amounts of clarified butter and dried berries. It’s served whole at the table, and I genuinely enjoy the ritual of cutting a whole fish myself.
As an addition to the menu, I had to order the schnitzel, which has been the restaurant’s signature dish since opening. It’s deep-fried in clarified butter rather than oil, a technique that adds remarkable richness and depth. On the side were fresh peas with a horseradish cream that provided welcome balance to the rich schnitzel. A dish that remains incredibly comforting and delicious.
Dessert was the only dish on the menu that disappointed slightly. Inspired by the puddings that were popular in Denmark during the 1980s, it was brought into the present with a saffron sauce poured over vanilla pudding. Compared to the previous dishes, however, it felt stuck in the past. The savoury dishes had evolved with a new lightness and freshness, while the dessert felt more nostalgic than exciting.
In the first seven months after Barr opened, I visited 11 times—probably more often than any other restaurant. Over the years, however, my visits became less frequent as the menu grew increasingly heavy and changed very little. This redesign feels like a reset—not only of the dining room but of the cooking itself. Barr once again feels vibrant, and I suspect I’ll be returning far more often. For anyone visiting Copenhagen and looking for Danish traditions interpreted with care, technique and a lighter touch, it remains one of the city’s strongest recommendations.
Practical information
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Menu: à la carte and 4 course menu
Head chef: Thorsten Schmidt
Website: www.restaurantbarr.dk
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