Paris has more Michelin stars than any other city in Europe and is only surpassed by Tokyo worldwide. Geoelia is classic French and its head chef is not yet a household name, making it even more important to stand out.
Our lunch would start in the kitchen with a few snacks and the approach and identity were revealed from the first bite. Shrimps, oyster, anchovy, cockles and whelk were all served with just a few added components. Just enough so that the strong flavours from the sea would get some contrast, but never so much that it overshadowed the product.
Head chef Camille Saint-M’leux is from Brittany and proud of both its heritage and products. The shellfish, which forms the backbone of Geoelia, is a prime example of that. Later in the menu I would see just how strong that influence was, as ingredients from the sea found their way into the most unlikely places.
Caviar with rice is a classic combination but here Camille would put a twist on it. First of all he would serve both Oscietra and Baeri caviar for a more complex flavour. The rice was slightly sweet to balance the salinity of the caviar, while a smoky crème completed the dish. One that was both elegant, simple and flavourful.
The elegance would be underscored by an unlikely pairing in Paris: sake. But in the hands of a young and talented sommelier it was a great match. Something that would become a general theme throughout the day and especially so for the next dish.
A dish that was as innovative as the previous pairing. A dish that I never imagined seeing on a menu would be white asparagus with a cacio e pepe sauce. Especially not at a French Michelin-starred restaurant. However, the combination makes sense and creates something both delicious and comforting. Paired with a funky wine it was even more unexpected than the previous pairing, yet it proved to be a match made in heaven. On its own a funky wine can be a bit challenging, but together with the rich cacio e pepe it brought the dish into an unexpected but spectacular place.
Grilled tuna is not a dish often found in Michelin-starred restaurants. Often the tuna belly is chosen and served raw. This was also almost raw as it had been lightly seared and a vinaigrette provided lots of acidity to create a light and refreshing dish. Paired with sake, it was a courageous choice that paid off.
Not every dish landed equally well for me. The red mullet, served with couscous and a powerful sauce dominated by iron-rich flavours, crossed a line where intensity became overwhelming. A dish lacking the balance that the previous dishes had mastered to perfection.
It’s normal that a menu builds in intensity so from a rich fish dish it could only be time for meat. Charcoal-grilled Jersey beef with a cuttlefish sauce. A signature dish. Not so much for its flavour but for what it says about Camille as a chef. Even when working with beef, elements from the sea find their way into the dish, showing just how important those flavours are to him.
At the same time it tells a lot about his approach to food. Simple product-driven dishes still need a small twist of creativity, whether it comes from the wine pairing, as earlier, or from the flavour profile itself as it does here.
A former Danish prince who originated from France was famous for saying that it was not a meal unless it included cheese. It was therefore only natural that we would start there before a small but delicious dish of flambéed cherries with vanilla ice cream. Comforting flavours at their very best.
From comforting back to a bit more innovation where Camille once again would include flavours from the sea in a place where they don’t naturally belong. In a dessert. But again, as a testament to his skills, it made sense. Oyster water was included together with confit lemons, lots of green herbs and a bit of meringue for texture. The oyster water was subtle and built layers of flavour rather than becoming the main attraction.
With this my lunch at Geoelia had reached its end. A lunch that had impressed me at every level. With small twists in flavour composition, Camille created dishes that sparked curiosity while remaining deeply comforting. Classic but not boring.
A type of restaurant I have come to appreciate more and more in recent years. It’s not every night that you are in the mood for 15 dishes that challenge you. Sometimes you just want to lean back and enjoy it. Geoelia does just that.
Axel, the young sommelier, is a big part of that. At times he shows great courage and creativity in his pairings, while at others he demonstrates the restraint to let Camille take centre stage. The very best pairings can’t separate the wine from the dish because they belong together and 2+2 equals 5 or 6. This was definitely the case here.
The talent and creativity of the two, balanced by a respect for tradition, is a very powerful combination.
Practical information
Location: Paris, France
Head chef: Camille Saint-M’leux
Menu: 9 course tasting menu €160
Website: www.geoelia.com
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