Imagine opening a restaurant and, within two months, entering the Michelin Guide with two stars. Two years later, you debut on the World’s 50 Best list at number 91 — just to name a few of the accolades. That is the reality of Koan in Copenhagen. Extraordinary achievements, and based on my first visits, entirely deserved.
This was not a first encounter but a return — an opportunity to see whether Koan’s upward momentum had continued, and more importantly, whether its sense of identity had stayed true to what I had experienced on the first two occasions. What stood even at my second visit was not ambition, but confidence.
Pairings as a Statement of Intent
On my previous visit, one of the most noticeable developments was the pairing program, and it has since evolved even further. What was once a more focused offering has expanded into five distinct pairings: two wine levels, champagne, non-alcoholic, and a pairing built around South Korean spirits. The number itself is impressive, but what truly matters is the intent behind it.
Rather than trying to appeal to everyone, Koan manages to satisfy seasoned diners regardless of preferences without compromise. Each pairing feels thoughtfully constructed, not as an alternative but as a complete experience in its own right.
The evening naturally begins with champagne, and here Koan makes its ambitions unmistakably clear. Jacques Selosse, Krug, and — for those without platinum cards — an excellent more approachable option. It is an opening that immediately signals where you are and who this restaurant is speaking to.
Familiarity, Revisited
Looking at the menu before dinner revealed a carefully judged balance between familiarity and curiosity. Dishes I knew well sat comfortably alongside new ideas, suggesting evolution rather than reinvention.
The snacks set the tone immediately. Visually precise, technically immaculate, and each with a clearly defined flavor profile. These are not snacks meant to impress through excess, but through clarity and control. Every bite had a purpose, every detail felt considered.
Among the smaller dishes, the oyster with baksuld and champagne sauce was every bit as delicious as I remembered. Rich, indulgent, and deeply satisfying — I made sure not a single drop of that sauce went to waste. A crisp tart of acorn, fermented green strawberry, green chili, and delicate star-shaped garnishes followed. A recurring motif perhaps, quietly hinting at both past achievements and future ambitions.
Icons in the Making
Koan already has a handful of dishes that feel inseparable from its identity, and the tofu with caviar and fermented strawberries is undoubtedly one of them. Iconic for good reason. The interplay of silky tofu, bright acidity, and the saline depth of caviar creates a dish that is both complex and immediately pleasurable. Each bite unfolds in stages, and the balance is nothing short of masterful.
Another dish that feels entirely its own is the warm kkwabaegi served with cold salted butter. There is something deeply satisfying about its simplicity. It is uncomplicated, comforting, and unmistakably Koan — a type of bread you simply do not encounter elsewhere.
While many dishes have been on the menu since day one and refined to perfection this one has probably had the biggest evolution, almost revolution. A thin slice of ribeye wrapped around a langoustine. Surf and turf rarely excites me, but here the combination works precisely because it avoids convention. Kimchi brings heat and sweetness, while a paste of caramelized garlic and onion adds depth and umami. Even before tasting, the attention to detail is evident: each oxalis leaf cut into a perfect heart, a quiet reminder of the care that defines this kitchen.
Rice as a Centerpiece
It feels entirely natural that the final savory courses revolve around rice — and not just any rice, but gamasot claypot-cooked rice. During recent travels in Southeast Asia, I encountered claypot rice for the first time and quickly realized it exists in a completely different universe from the rice we so often relegate to the role of sauce absorber in our home cooking .
At Koan, the rice is the main event. Cooked in a claypot, crowned with brown crab and truffle, it is refined yet deeply comforting. If your inner child is still alive, I strongly recommend mixing everything together into one glorious mess. It ensures that every bite contains a bit of everything — and there is undeniable pleasure in dismantling something beautiful.
In keeping with Korean tradition, the remaining rice is transformed into a porridge. It is not visually striking, but it is profoundly heartwarming. And in the end, that matters far more.
Desserts with Depth
Desserts at Koan are treated with the same seriousness as the savory courses. A perfectly round scoop of rose parfait offers a refreshing, elegant transition before the final statement.
That statement is one of Koan’s most intellectually confident dishes — a dessert that, to my knowledge, was among the first to introduce caviar into the sweet course more than a decade ago. Roasted seaweed ice cream with hazelnut oil and gastrounika ice cream may sound unlikely, but the umami-rich profile pairs effortlessly with the refined salinity of the caviar.
The dish reaches its peak when paired with a warm, oozing milky oolong tea soufflé. Opening it releases a cloud of steam carrying sweet and savory notes at once. At that moment, resistance is futile — this is pure indulgence, executed with precision.
The Prestige Pairing — Worth Every Krone
For this visit, I chose the prestige wine pairing, and despite its substantial price tag of 5,000 DKK, it justified every krone. Bringing out famous labels is easy; selecting wines that truly elevate each dish is not. Here, every pairing felt deliberate.
My preferences usually lean toward natural wines, but when conventional wines reach this level of quality, my allegiance shifts. Highlights included a 2009 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie paired with blood sausage, and a young 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis alongside the ribeye and langoustine. Its youthful power proved a perfect counterpoint to the spice in the sauce. The crab and rice were accompanied by a 2012 Comtes which is one of my favorite champagnes was a pairing based on elegance and finesse.
Service That Completes the Picture
A true three-star restaurant masters every aspect of the experience, from arrival to farewell. Koan does exactly that. And this year, the most noticeable leap forward has been in service.
They remembered everything from previous visits — whether we preferred still or sparkling water, which champagne we had chosen, even our preference for tea. I have rarely experienced this level of detailed recall elsewhere. What impresses me most is not just that these details are noted, but that they are clearly valued. That they matter.
For a brief moment, it feels as though you are at the center of the universe, utterly taken care of. It is a feeling I have encountered only a handful of times, even among the world’s best restaurants.
A Measured Conclusion
Given Michelin’s historical conservatism, it would be surprising if Koan were awarded three stars at the upcoming ceremony. And yet, based on my experiences, it would be entirely justified — even just three years after opening.
Koan possesses the defining qualities of a young restaurant — passion, drive, curiosity — combined with the composure, confidence, and consistency of a seasoned one. That combination is rare. And it is precisely what makes Koan one of the most compelling dining experiences in Copenhagen
Practical information
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Head Chef: Kristian Baumann
Menu: 15 courses 3600kr ($560)
Website: www.koancph.dk
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