My last visit to Ikoyi was one of the great meals of my life, so returning came with all the anticipation you’d expect. Standing outside again, I felt that familiar excitement like when your parents took you to a candy store as a kid and you were just about to open that magical door. And the moment I stepped back into the dark, cosy dining room and tasted the first dish, that feeling just grew. A broth of gola peppers and roasted chicken wings: deep, aromatic, and as quietly powerful as I remembered. It set the tone immediately.
The snacks that followed continued in that same vein while breaking the mould of what “snacks” usually are. First, a guinea fowl stew tucked inside a crisp bun with a sharp hit of sesame — rich, flavorfull, and our first hint of spice. Then the biggest, most luxurious piece of otero (tuna belly) I’ve ever been served, presented with absolute confidence. And last, aged beef in a delicate tart with chanterelles. Three small dishes, each one unmistakably Jeremy: bold, spicy, and completely uninterested in playing by anyone else’s rules. After all usually restaurants like to start with delicate flavor impressions and definently doesn’t serve you a stew as the second snack. Nor do they serve otero this size in one single piece. No they chop it in smaller pieces which hides the elegance of the fish.
The menu had changed entirely since my previous visit, but thankfully the saffron crème caramel remains. It should never leave the menu. While the rest of the world does chawanmushi, Jeremy serves a silky caramel crème with potent saffron and a generous crown of caviar. Once again a dish that shows Jeremys unique approach to flavor where he once again takes something that is very traditional British like a creme caramel but makes it his own by putting that spicy saffron kick to it and the bright red/purple color sauce is screaming with confidence.
From here, the dishes grew in size and ambition. A huge scallop fried in tempura came with chili, daikon and a tomato sauce — a combination that shouldn’t make sense but absolutely does. Throughout the meal I kept thinking of Jeremy as a conductor with a fifty-person orchestra, deliberately layering ingredients and notes until the whole thing hits a perfect chord. The sweetbread with corn grits had that same energy, as did a beautifully cooked Dorset lobster served with four different sauces and emulsions. It was a dish that showed how far he can push contrast while still landing on a coherent, exceptional flavour. All dishes served with bright colored sauces that you never see in a classic British restaurant. Especially not this time of the year.
By this point we were admittedly getting full, but when a large bowl of smoked jollof rice arrived, I found space. Especially because it came with aged beef, three versions of “mole,” and a rich gravy. Another symphony of flavour, and one of the most satisfying dishes of the meal.
Desserts at Ikoyi tend to be simpler in form but still clever. The first combined jasmine tea with a Korean cucumber jelly — cooling, fragrant, unexpected. The next brought together tea and green yuzu for a clean, bright finish.
What strikes me every time is that the flavours at Ikoyi are unlike anything else. The presentations are sharp, the dishes ambitious, and Jeremy’s ability to combine so many ideas into a single plate is remarkable. His commitment to British ingredients is equally impressive; where many chefs would simply fly in tuna from Japan, he takes the harder route and finds a supplier who can deliver similar quality locally. That level of dedication shows.
The sommelier team also deserves applause. They offer three pairings — wine, sake and tea — and each one is thought through with the same level of intention as the food. I’ve tried them all, and regardless of which you choose, the match is seamless and like the filosofi of the food they also surprise the guest with unique wines. Even wines that by them selves comes across as peculiar but paired with the food makes perfect sense.
My only reservation is the sheer amount of protein across the menu. Each savory dish had a main course size protein together with rich sauces. It’s a lot, and I was full earlier than I wanted to be. I wouldn’t shorten the menu nor take away the proteins, but I would recommend having an early, light lunch beforehand so you can enjoy every dish the way it deserves.
Once again, Ikoyi delivered an extraordinary experience. It remains one of the most original kitchens anywhere, and a place that rewards diners who want flavour, ambition and a point of view — all executed at the very highest level.
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