Walking into Mauro Colagreco’s restaurant inside Raffles London, I couldn’t help but pause. The dining room is stunning in that effortless, classic way withsoft light, soaring ceilings, and a sense of history that clings to the walls. The building once housed the British War Office. The very place where Winston Churchill directed strategy during World War II. Today, those same rooms now cradle one of London’s most elegant hotels and Colagreco’s Michelin-starred restaurant. A transformation that feels just right.
With three menu options—a la carte, a shorter lunch set, and a full seven-course tasting menu for dinner—the choice was easy. We went all in.
Snacks with Intent
The opening sequence set the tone immediately. A delicate lobster taco brightened with lovage. A carrot tart piped with trout roe, apple, and parsley. And a simple potato terrine crowned with anchovies and black winter truffle—humble in theory, regal in execution. These weren’t just pretty bites; they were flavour-packed, precise, and genuinely joyful. Exactly the kind of start you hope for in a restaurant of this level.
A Walk Through the Forest
Late October meant the menu was inspired by the forest. First came a chicken terrine topped with crunchy, umami-rich chicken skin and cep mushrooms. It had that comforting cosy up around the fire place quality.. From there, we moved to Japan with a velvety chawanmushi layered with onion consommé, shaved walnuts, and caviar. The two dishes couldn’t have been more different—one textural and rustic, the other soft and delicate—but together they captured the season perfectly.
Land Meets Sea
The forest theme continued with a delicious surf-and-turf built around hen of the woods mushrooms and Scottish lobster. A hearty lobster sauce tied everything together with the intensity you want from a dish like this. Beautifully balanced, indulgent without being heavy.
A Comforting Classic
Our final savory course embraced a trio I’ll never tire of: venison, blackcurrant, and beetroot. A delicious combination and when executed this well its as comforting as it gets. Deep, earthy, familiar flavours, elevated without being fussy.
A Gentle Landing
Desserts kept the same rhythm of elegance and comforting flavors. First, a refreshing pine ice cream with a crisp sugary shell and a healthy drizzle of olive oil. Then a final return to the forest: cep mushrooms with sabayonne cream and ice cream, a combination that was both surprising and nostalgic. A selection of petit fours closed the meal with finesse.
A Restaurant Worth Its Setting
Mauro Colagreco’s London outpost is a thoughtful, beautifully seasonal interpretation of his cooking. French at heart, but tuned to the colder British climate. The food is refined and comforting y, classic without ever feeling predictable.
A small word of warning: the dining room is so photogenic that it attracts a certain crowd, especially at lunch. During our visit, one guest changed outfits three times—impressive dedication even by influencer standards. If you prefer a calmer room, book dinner, when the atmosphere is warmer and far less performative.
But regardless of the time of day, the recommendation stands. This is a restaurant that honours its historic setting while delivering a genuinely memorable meal. And for me, that’s a combination worth seeking out.
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