I’ve long believed Copenhagen is one of the best food cities in the world. Beyond its famous fine dining temples, the city thrives on an extraordinary middle tier segment — where creativity, precision, and flavor often surpass what I’ve experienced at many Michelin restaurants abroad. Paula is the latest addition to that scene, and it feels instantly at home.
The setting
The restaurant sits in Carlsberg, one of my favorite neighborhoods — a place where the city’s brewing history has been transformed into a vibrant mix of restaurants, bakeries, and small shops. Paula took over the former home of Studio, and at first glance, little has changed. The room looks unchaged and elegant, the tableware and glassware still beautiful, and even the playlist remains — the kind of detail that gives the place a certain luxurious aura already stepping in the door.
The concept
In the kitchen, Stefan Hansen has taken charge. His background blends high-end gastronomy with canteen experience — a combination that brings both technical finesse and a rare sense of efficiency. The concept is flexible: you can order à la carte or compose your own five-course menu. For two people, that naturally meant we ordered the entire menu and shared every dish — an approach that turned out to be perfect.
Vegetables as stars
Two small snacks opened the meal, immediately setting the tone: technical precision, excellent ingredients, and above all, flavor.
Then came three vegetable-forward dishes that revealed Stefan clear affection for sauces — especially the creamy, dairy-based kind. First, kale with unripe green strawberries, poached egg yolk, and a deeply flavorful blue cheese sauce — a dish that balanced acidity and richness beautifully. Then chanterelles and potatoes with a fermented artichoke sauce and Arla Unika cheese — comforting and indulgent, yet lifted by subtle twists.
A dish called “carrot kebab” turned out to be one of the highlights of the evening. The description included lots of technical terms such as fermentation, dehydration, and rehydration created a flavor depth that was far beyond what its modest name suggested. It was one of those dishes where sharing turns into polite negotiation — or, more accurately, a small battle for the last bite.
From Nordic Comfort to Global Touches
A deer tartare followed, using the same visual language as the carrot kebab. Pickled blueberries, dehydrated beets, and a beet-blueberry purée built a wonderfully vibrant, earthy flavor to support to delicious deer.
So far, everything had leaned Nordic and French, but then a gentle detour to Japan appeared — lightly grilled hiramasa with katsuobushi and cherry dashi. It was elegant, slightly sweet, and added another dimension to the evening.
The next course — breaded sander with soufflé and a sauce of kefir, lime, and butter — was one of those dishes that makes you pause mid-conversation. Perfectly cooked, with an irresistible balance of creamy and tangy. It was also yet another dish where discussions were had over who got the bigger piece. The final savory course, grilled deer with summer truffles and cognac sauce, was deliciously classic, though not quite as memorable as the sander.
Umamirich desserts
Desserts continued the story of umami and surprise. First, cheese with caviar and pickled shio leaves — served with a sauce of fermented honey and brown butter that tied the dish together beautifully. Then, a cep mushroom mille-feuille with chocolate — one of the best desserts I’ve had this year. Deep, rich, and completely addictive. Finally, a fig leaf ice cream with matcha, caviar, and finger lime — light, floral, and a perfect way to end.
A warm welcome to Paula
It’s obvious I loved Paula. The menu speaks to my heart: a focus on vegetables, well-built sauces, and dishes that balance complexity with comfort. Stefan has a rare ability to construct layered flavors without ever losing warmth or soul. The flexibility of the format makes it approachable, yet the food could easily stand in a Michelin setting.
Paula still carries the refined spirit of Studio, but with a more relaxed energy — a place that feels luxurious without trying to be. For its price point, it sits firmly in the upper bistro category but offers far more than that label suggests
Practical information
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Head chef: Stefan Hansen
Menu: a la carte or 5 course menu for 995kr
Website:
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