Emi opened in Madrid just two months ago, but for me, it’s been a long time coming. I’ve been waiting for this restaurant to open for seven months — ever since Miquel Ángel Millán told me he was joining a new project together with chef Rubén Hernández. Miquel is an incredible sommelier and a dear friend, while Rubén has worked at some of the world’s best restaurants — Noma, Atomix, Azurmendi. Places known for innovation and flavor. A match made in heaven in other words.
I first met Miquel seven years ago at DiverXO, long before he was crowned Best Sommelier in the Worldby World’s 50 Best. Over time, admiration turned into friendship. So walking through the doors of Emi and seeing his smile was the best possible welcome. After a short tour of the restaurant, he poured a glass of 2000 Krug. An incredible way to start the evening — and, knowing my love of champagne, two more great bottles would follow.
The Beginning – Small Bites, Big Impressions
Rubén started strong with a series of snacks that showed both precision and personality. First, a tartlet with smoked eel and a touch of fresh cheese — delicate, smoky, and balanced. Then a clear nod to his Atomix background: a Korean gim bugak, where rice was mixed with nori seaweed and topped with a sweet and fatty shrimp. The nori gave depth and a soft taste of the sea without being overwhelming. It was elegant, creative, and completely delicious.
The final snack, a venison croustade with apple gel, was all about contrasts — rich meat, sweetness, and a perfectly crunchy tartlet. We finished this first sequence with a broth of Jerusalem artichoke. It’s a dish you see in many places, but here it had its own identity. Korean spices added heat and complexity, and then Miquel poured a 1975 González Byass Amontillado. Together they worked like a lock and key — layered, unexpected, and one of those rare pairings that remind you how the true great sommeliers serves not only incredible wines but wines that brings enhanced the flavor of the food turning the combination into magic.
The Heart of Autumn
Next came dishes that felt like an embrace — comforting, warm, and deeply seasonal.Otoro with caviar and mussel escabeche was indulgent and perfectly composed. Then hamachi with sea grapes, lifted by a pear and tosazu juice that gave freshness and balance.
With autumn in full swing, mushrooms naturally played a key role. A broth with grilled leek, abalone, and egg yolk was rich, layered, and deeply satisfying — one of those dishes that make you pause and smile before taking the next spoonful. Then came a playful one: a Danish æbleskive filled with mushrooms. I loved the idea, but it didn’t quite hit the same high notes as the rest of the meal.
Fusion in the Best Possible Way
The next dish was described as a chawanmushi, but not the traditional kind. It was fusion in the absolute best sense — Rubén bringing together everything he’s learned into one brilliant creation. The base was a silky egg custard, topped with a sauce of dashi and duck, foie gras, cep mushrooms, gochugaru, and lobster. It was bold, complex, and yet perfectly in balance. Every bite revealed something new, but nothing felt forced. For me, it was the highlight of the evening — the kind of dish that’s both comforting and intellectually stimulating, showing just how much depth Rubén has as a chef and brings all of his past experiences to the menu at Emi.
Home stretch — Quiet Confidence
The first main course was a yakitori-grilled seabream served with a buttery Joselito ham sauce and a white kimchi foam. It was elegant and full of contrast — rich, salty, and fresh at once. The second was venison with a gentle lobster curry, kale, and a classic jus. It had everything I love about late autumn: depth, balance, and it was executed to perfection.
Desserts — Familiar but with a Twist
The first was a modern take on rødgrød med fløde, the classic Danish “strawberries with cream” A tongue twister and a classic summer dish. This version came with a touch of yuzu and wasabi. It was delicious and elegant, though I would have loved an even bolder use of those flavors.
The last dessert, though, had that extra twist I was hoping for — an ice cream made from cep mushrooms served with a seaweed caramel. One of the most umami-rich desserts I’ve ever had, and one of the best. To make it even more special, Miquel paired it with a 1977 Château d’Yquem. It’s a wine usually reserved for sweet dishes, but here it shone even brighter with something savory. A match made in heaven.
Reflections
Considering Emi had only been open for two months when I visited, it already feels remarkably complete. The menu flows beautifully, the flavors are precise, and the presentation feels effortlessly elegant. Maybe it’s my Copenhagen bias, a lot of the flavors felt familiar Nordic. Still, I hope he’ll continue to explore the Korean influences that appear throughout the meal, because that’s where Emi really stud out for me and has unique flavors.
And then there’s Miquel. His wine pairings are nothing short of exceptional. He once told me he doesn’t like to get drunk, and I thought about that during this meal. Each pour is calculated and a small amounts is given. Is this case it made sence and I applauded it. My wife said it perfectly: “If the food was a roaring fire, the wines were the fuel that made it burn brighter.” That’s why the glasses are slightly smaller than normal as they are ment to be enjoyed with the food and not separately.
When I left Emi, I felt intoxicated — not by alcohol, but by the whole experience. The food, the wine, the sense of something new beginning. Emi may be young, but it already feels like a place with a soul and I will for sure continue to follow how they develop.
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