Two years ago, Jessica Rosval stepped out of Massimo Bottura’s shadow to open Al Gatto Verde at Casa Maria Luigia. Before that, she led the kitchens at both Osteria Francescana and Osteria Francescana at Casa Maria Luigia—two of the most prestigious positions a chef could hold.
I visited Al Gatto Verde less than a month after it first opened, and even then, I remember thinking: she knows exactly what she wants to say through her food. The menu already stood strong on its own. Of course, you could sense the Bottura inspiration—it’s hard not to—but what struck me was the clarity of Jessica’s voice. Like Massimo, her food tells a story, but it’s unmistakably her own.
Coming back was a real pleasure. The dining room remains unchanged—just as gorgeous as I remembered. Bright green wooden panels line the space, and the grand painting anchoring the room is still as breathtaking as it was on day one.
As a restaurant located within a hotel, they offer both à la carte and a tasting menu. Jessica explained how popular the à la carte option is with local guests, which makes sense. Still, for us, the tasting menu was the natural choice. That said, I increasingly appreciate places that offer both paths—it gives diners a more personal experience.
We began with three small snacks: caviar and cauliflower, crunchy cotechino with apple, and a fennel mustard with blue cheese. Each hit the mark in both texture and flavor. Especially the smoky cotechino—always a favorite of mine. Paired with apple, it brought to mind Texas barbecue, but reimagined through a more elegant, refined lens.
Then came the two standout dishes of the night. Both centered around bright acidity, something I’m always drawn to.
The first: a “ceviche” unlike any I’ve had outside Peru. Tiny dice of green apple and celeriac brought floral acidity and a satisfying crunch, while the fish—lightly smoked eel—gave the dish depth and richness. It may not have looked like a traditional ceviche, and many classic ingredients were absent, but the essence was there. Too many chefs in Europe misfire trying to reinterpret ceviche, not understanding its core. Jessica didn’t just get it right—she made it her own.
The next dish was nearly as memorable: a lemon granita made from four lemon varieties for complexity, paired with almonds and anchovies. A beautiful nod to Sicily’s contrasting flavors, it offered a delicate play of temperatures and a brightness that lingered.
Jessica’s latest menu explores flavors from around the world without losing sight of its Italian soul. A classic bouillabaisse was the perfect example. The broth was traditional and deeply flavorful, but the presentation was striking—seafood perfectly arranged, each piece glistening with quality. Saffron Madeleines on the side invited you to mop up every last drop in proper Italian style.
Jessica also dedicates part of her time to Roots, a social restaurant project where immigrant women—often struggling to find employment—are trained to work in hospitality. Many of them come from Africa, and that influence has gently made its way into her cuisine.
A beautiful dish of lamb, rubbed with African spices and peanuts, was confit and grilled, forming a gorgeous crust with layers of heat and aroma. The spicy notes carried into a pasta dish just before dessert: pasta glazed in a sweet and sour tomato sauce, then grilled. To tie it all together, it was served with a chili and chocolate ganache—a bold, almost Mexican twist that worked surprisingly well.
Borlengo was also part of my first visit—then served with truffles. This time, it came adorned with beautiful flowers, pecorino, and honey. Still that same wonderful balance of sweet and savory, but with a lighter, more poetic touch.
The final dessert continued that theme: salted caramel, charcoaled black pepper, and a sweet, tangy passion fruit gel. Bold yet harmonious—a great closing note.
Two years in, the evolution is clear. The flavor compositions have grown more layered and confident, while the menu digs even deeper into Italian traditions—yet remains curious and playful with influences from far beyond.
And just like Jessica, the rest of the team radiates warmth and generosity, creating the kind of relaxed, joyful atmosphere that lets great food shine even brighter.
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