Martin Berasategui is one of the most decorated chefs in the world, holding a total of 11 Michelin stars. His restaurant empire began over 30 years ago in Lasarte, a suburb of San Sebastián. From there, it expanded to locations like the luxurious Monument Hotel in Barcelona, where Restaurant Lasarte also holds 3 Michelin stars.
I tried Lasarte a couple of years back and loved the classic preparations, but I had never experienced a meal at the hands of the master himself—until now.
I rarely visit restaurants that have held 3 Michelin stars for more than a decade. With the guide almost never removing stars once awarded, it’s hard to know whether the quality has held up over time. In this case, the restaurant has kept its stars for 23 years. Despite my hesitation, conversations with locals in San Sebastián made one thing clear: when it comes to fine dining, it’s all about Martin Berasategui. That convinced me I had to go.
“Modern understated luxury” were the first words that came to mind as I walked through the restaurant to my table. The dining room overlooks a serene garden, each table accompanied by a personal trolley used for service. White tablecloths, stone floors, floor-to-ceiling wood panels, and soft, comfortable chairs make it the kind of place you’re happy to spend several hours in.
Whenever there’s a tasting menu, I go for it—but here they also offer a build-your-own à la carte menu. I loved this option, especially since some tasting menu dishes didn’t suit my wife’s palate. The flexibility was a major plus.
The meal began with a small bite: smoked tuna on celeriac with caviar and a bergamot “cloud.” One bite in, and I knew I was in for something special. This wasn’t nostalgia—it was innovation. Martin Berasategui is very much still evolving in both flavor and technique.
The next dish showcased olives in various forms—from highly technical preparations to simple olive oil poured straight from the bottle. It was beautifully presented and full of flavor.
Then came the most classic dish of the evening: eel, foie gras, and green apple. It was perfectly balanced in texture and flavor, with a crunch that gave way to a rich, soft center. Paired with a 2000 Colheita port, it was probably the best foie gras dish I’ve ever had. I couldn’t stop smiling.
Then came the bread—and what a moment. Throughout the meal, different types were served. The sourdough had the perfect crunch, and the bacon brioche was a delightful surprise. I devoured the sourdough with a butter made from Iberico ham fat—rich, flavorful, and unique.
Perhaps the most iconic dish in San Sebastián is the Gilda. Here, it was deconstructed: spheres of olive oil, tuna, and anchovies, with more olive oil added to balance the saltiness. It was not only a delicious homage to local flavors but also to local tradition—expertly executed.
We continued with two technical and refreshing seafood dishes: first, trout with crystallized cucumber, then oyster with smoky bell pepper foam and crunchy seaweed. Both dishes exemplified the experience—great flavor, refined technique, stunning presentation, and a beautiful interplay of textures.
Foie gras returned, this time paired with mushrooms and Iberian ham. All soft textures, but it worked beautifully. It was a soothing, rich dish and a nice contrast to the others.
Hake is an essential fish in Basque cuisine. While the cheeks—or kokotxas—are the usual favorite, here a fillet was served with lemongrass and coconut, giving it an Asian twist. The result? Incredible.
Oddly, in a sea of standout dishes, the perfectly cooked lobster didn’t leave a strong impression.
The final savory course, however, certainly did. All evening, the plating had been elegant and artistic, but this dish was the pinnacle: a pink lamb fillet surrounded by fresh herbs, gels, and stuffed onions. It looked like a painting—almost too beautiful to eat.
Desserts followed the same narrative as the savory courses—local ingredients, striking compositions, and great flavor. From a refreshing mojito foam to lemon sorbet with basil and finally espresso ice cream with a malt whiskey frosting, each bite was thoughtful and delicious.
The service throughout was flawless. At this level, it’s the small things that matter: adjusting the pacing to our preference, clearing breadcrumbs while I was away from the table, chatting when I wanted to talk, and even suggesting a cider when I mentioned I often drink it with pintxos. Everything was intuitive and precise.
From start to finish, I loved the experience—though I had been nervous I wouldn’t. I was genuinely impressed. The flavors were deeply rooted in Basque tradition, yet the menu never felt outdated. Staying relevant after more than 25 years is incredibly difficult, especially when working within the frame of classic, local cuisine. But here, the balance was perfect. The history was felt, but so was the energy and ambition to evolve.
Yes, the technique and flavor composition were masterful—but more than that, it was the sense of energy that stood out. You could feel that everyone in the kitchen and dining room was still pushing to be just a little bit better
Practical information
Location: San Sebastián, Spain
Headchef: Martin Berasategui
Menu: 12 course tasing menu €395
Website: https://www.martinberasategui.com/en/inicio
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