Cooking in Motion brings the Nikkei kitchen to Copenhagen
Nomad chef Sebeastion Mazzola and sakesommelier Sussie Villarico brought their Nikkei cusines to Copenhagen for 4 nights only at the luxurious Sølyst. With this it was possible to combine both a very modern cusine, a full sake pairing and an almost 300 year country house.
The first couple of snacks was served standing in a lounge area where you felt the history with several enormous portrait paintings. A common denominator for the snacks was that several different variations of Arla Unika cheese was used. A sponsor off course but as long as they are as delicious as they were this evening who cares;-)
The first dish was a small umami clound with caviar and yogurt. Quite bland but the razor clam that was also on the plate was not. Incredible firm in texture and well just delicious combined with a bit of miso, sesame and lemon.
Shelfish was also at the heart of the next serving which was an oyster, served with grapes, salmon roe and an ajo blanco. The combination of the acidic grapes and the salty oyster was a great match. The ajo blanco sauce provided a nice richness to the dish. I am still not sure it was needed, but it was delicious.
The next dish was pure umamu in the form of what they called chawangmushi with shitake and enoki mushrooms and topped with a bit of truffle. So basically a bowl of umami. The flavours were delicious but I didn’t care for the texture which can best be compared to that of a pudding.
Aburi squid causa with youzu emulsion and avocado gave me the first real sensation that this was a “Peruvian meal” as the other dishes had been more European inspired. Nice textures and the soft chili flavors were a great supplement to the delicate squid.
Smoked and salted duck took centerstage of the next dish which was supplemented cep mushrooms, sautéed bimi, black garlic and selleri pure. The duck was very delicious and the smokey elements worked very well with the black garlic and sweet selleri.
Not often is the signature dish a dessert, but this was the case tonight. A lemon merengue tarte with a few crunchy coffee bits served in a lemon off course. I love lemon merengue tarte and this was no exception. The cold sake and coffee cocktail was an amazing match.
White chocolate, yogurt, passion fruit and matcha. Great flavors and everything worked really well together but somehow it just didn’t blow me away.
In this regard I think that the last dish sums of the experience quite well. Everything was delicious but I just wasn’t blown away. Having a full sake pairing was nice as it really opened my eyes to the great variations within sake which until tonight was a big blackbox for me. Did it turn me into a sakelover? No. Would I have preferred a classic winepairing? No I actually don’t think so because it was great to try something which was completely new.