Modern technique used to interpret the local cuisine in a modern context is always appealing. Paired that with a rating of 12 on the Worlds 50 Best restaurants lets just say that I was more then curious before my first Mexican fine dining experience.
And it is pretty safe to say that I had both a genuine Mexican experience with escamoles (ant eggs), cactus, grasshopper and lots of chili and it was definitely in a modern context.
To kick of the menu was a very refreshing cactus salad with beetroot. Paired with beetroot juice it was just a great simple dish.
Next dish was equally beautiful as it was delicious. A salbute flower with different kinds of creams. Some were hot, some and spicy, some Smokey, others just refreshing and the combination was delicious.
Whenever asked in a restaurant if I have food allergies I always tell them that I will eat everything. To the day I have never regretted that answer and today was no exception when escamoles, which is ant eggs, was served. The locals call them caviar of Mexico and I can understand why. With an avocado tartar and lime powder this was without a doubt the highlight of the meal.
A tough act to follow and the next dish could maybe in a different setting have made a bigger impact. A cluster of mushrooms. Usually the stem is cut off but here the entire thing was served. I am not sure I cared for the texture of this. That aside together with an onion sauce and fava bean cream it was quite nice.
Catch of the day – which fish eludes my mind. Served with chili chipotle, squash and pineapple there was great balance between sweet, sour and spice. A thing I will keep in mind in all future cooking endeavors – always have a sweet balance to chili.
Last main was a dry aged durango rib eye with grasshopper & quelites chimichurri, rutabaga purée. OK but not excellent. Despite being dry aged there was less flavors then expected.
Before the dessert a cactus sorbet was served. Strange how cactus has now became a personal favorite of mine. Again very refreshing.
First dessert was different berries, strawberries, raspberries and some locals variants. Great but it didn’t blow my mind
I have never really cared for marzipan, which was basically what the next dish tasted of. Beautiful though.
Finishing the meal some of the dishes blew my mind and all dishes were quite delicious. For a place among the 15 best restaurants in the world the service was not up to par. Very little interaction with the guests, the presentation of the dishes were very standard and you genuine didn’t get the personal experience that ties everything together. Maybe this was due to the language barrier but for me a personal service is almost equally important to the food.
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